Features

Opti 2024: Best in show

Opti, the first major optical tradeshow of 2024, took place at the Trade Fair Center Messe München on January 12-14. Mike Hale reports on the most eye-catching sports eyewear and the most impressive start-ups at the show

Astral

Sports

Rudy Project

Sports eyewear specialists Rudy Project debuted three new products at Opti. ‘Astral is an entry level sports sunglass,’ said Sebastian Siedler, country managing director for Germany and Austria at Rudy Project.

‘It is really light and is performance oriented with a cylindrical lens that is well suited for cycling and running. Our second new frame, Sirius (right) is more of an adaptable design that can be worn more generally as well as for sport.’

The third design was Kelion, lower right, Rudy Project’s new flagship cycling frame. ‘Kelion is the result of all our technical advancements,’ said Siedler. ‘Kelion has a wrap-around cylindrical lens with a 5.2 base curve, which allows for superior field of view.

In terms of technologies, it features our Powerflow ventilation system that prevents lens fogging, and fully adjustable nose piece and temple tips with components customisable in all directions. The lenses are also easily interchanged.’

All three of the frames are constructed from Rilsan Clear, a bioplastic derived from 45% castor oil grown by certified farmers in Gujarat, India.

 

Marcolin

Headlining the new season of Adidas sports eyewear unveiled at Opti by Marcolin under license agreement was the SP0090 mask (right).

‘The SP0090 sits within the Adidas Competition line of products of the highest quality,’ said Sofia Cibic, Adidas eyewear brand manager at Marcolin. ‘It is a mask in a wraparound silhouette with an innovative design on the lower edge.

'The temples feature a single ventilation slot at the front and are contoured to ensure a perfect fit. Rubber tips ensure top comfort and grip.’

The product also features the new three-bar Adidas logo, which decorates the nose pads and temple element attached to the lens. A variety of lens options are available to reduce glare and increase colour
perception.

 

Bollé

Bollé launched its watersports collection at Opti with three new products: Windchaser (right), Airfin and Airdrift, pictured below.

‘These new products have been developed in conjunction with a professional sailing team,’ said Sören Schrader, head of sales for Germany and Austria at Bollé Brands.

‘Obviously we are well known for our cycling frames, but we feel making truly bespoke products for sailing will help us increase our presence in the US.’

The lead release, Windchaser, has a cylindrical design and technical details that enhance performance. Notably, the frame features the company’s Fit Tech Temples with three-axis rotation that allow for an adjustable and reliable fit, Bollé’s Fin Shield technology that provides increased side coverage, self-locking hinges, and a floating cord.

‘Each component of Windchaser is made to be ecologically responsible,’ said Schrader. ‘The frame, side fins and temples are made from 45% bioplastic, while the adjustable nosepiece is 38% recycled.

Airfin and Airdrift

The Volt+ polarised lenses are made from 60% biobased polycarbonate. The general fit and floating cord also prevent the frame being lost in the sea.’

The new collection is rounded out by Airfin and Airdrift, which offer many of the same features as Windchaser but within a less performance focused overall design.

 

Opti Boxes

The Opti Boxes area of the show played host to start-up eyewear companies competing for the coveted Opti Box award.

Skans 

This year Copenhagen-based Skans took home the prize with the jury complimenting the fledgling company on its use of recycled metal without compromising functionality and committing 2% of its turnover for ecological and social
initiatives.

‘I want to use business as a force for good and I’m using eyewear as a tool to tackle planetary challenges,’ said founder Johanna Skans, founder at Skans. ‘I had a big interest in sustainability, so I equipped myself with a qualification in business sustainability management from the University of Cambridge. That triggered me to make eyewear that is aspirational and sustainable.’

Skans currently offers eight models in five different colours. Skans explained that her focus is on timeless design shapes. ‘They will last for a long time, and that is good for the planet.’

Recycled stainless steel is the material for all Skans frames currently.

‘We selected the material based on criteria including high comfort, high safety, hypoallergic qualities, and, of course, the environmental aspect,’ said Skans.

‘It was important to minimise waste and carbon emissions. I researched many different materials, including acetate and titanium, and stainless steel was the outstanding option. The bonus is that it is super lightweight and helps make the frames very comfortable.’

Manti Manti

Manti Manti is a dedicated children’s eyewear start-up that is named in honour of the mantis shrimp, which has one of the most complex visual systems on Earth.

‘My co-founder and I realised that kids’ eyewear is often just a side project of an adult brand,’ said Susann Hoffmann, co-founder at Manti Manti. ‘We are living in an age when more and more children do need glasses.

'So, we thought it was time to give them full focus and combine minimalist yet fun designs and functionality with quality and resource sustainability. To that end we have developed our 3D printed brand made in Germany.’

To date, Manti Manti has brought six different design shapes to market, all of which are available in three sizes and nine colours.

‘We have nose pads that are adjustable because children’s noses are still developing, said Hoffmann. ‘The temple tips are adjustable even when cold and, overall, the frames are super flexible and super lightweight.

'The most important thing is that kids don’t get headaches or feel like a frame is a nuisance in their face.’

 

Glacier Optics 

One of the more striking stands in the Opti Boxes section was Glacier Optics, which, fittingly for an eyewear company based in the Swiss Alps, was dramatically festooned with mountaineering ropes and ski equipment.

Glacier Optics specialises in retro mountain sports eyewear and its round shapes with side shields will be very familiar to anyone who skied in the 1980s and early 1990s.

‘We are not from the optical world,’ explained Benoît Goncerut, co-founder at Glacier Optics. ‘I’m a snowboarder and my partner is a pro-skier. For years, we did lots of expeditions and projects. Through our sponsors we became more aware of the product side of the mountain industry and wanted our own brand that reflected our values and vision.

‘At that time, we were finding these amazing vintage sunglasses in second hand shops but found they were not tough enough for more demanding mountain use. So, we decided to create our own frames of that style that would benefit from the current state-of-the-art in bespoke manufacturing. The side shields on our frames are removable so they can be worn more casually off the mountain.’

Promoting short consumption circuits is a priority for Glacier Optics and the company’s supply chain is limited to the Alps. This includes frame manufacturing in Grosfilley, France and lenses from Carl Zeiss in Castiglione Olona, Italy.